In this guide
- What is a snagging inspection?
- Why snagging matters for new-build buyers
- When to do your snagging inspection
- Professional inspector vs DIY
- How much does a snagging inspection cost?
- The complete new-build snagging checklist
- Tools and equipment you'll need
- How to document snags properly
- What to do when the developer will not fix snags
- Common new-build snag types
- Your legal protections
- Frequently asked questions
What is a snagging inspection?
A snagging inspection is a detailed visual and functional walk-through of a new or recently built home, carried out to identify every defect, incomplete item, or substandard finish before (or shortly after) the keys change hands. The output is a written "snag list" — a numbered, room-by-room record of everything the builder still needs to address.
A snag is any observable shortfall in workmanship or completion. That ranges from the trivial (a paint run on a skirting board, a smudged tile grout line) to the more serious (a window that does not lock properly, a shower tray that drains slowly, a radiator valve that weeps).
It is important to distinguish a snagging inspection from two other professional checks buyers sometimes confuse it with. A structural survey (or homebuyer's report) assesses the structural integrity, condition, and long-term soundness of an existing property, and is typically commissioned on older housing stock. A valuation is a short exercise carried out on behalf of a lender to confirm a property is worth the loan amount. A snagging inspection does neither of those things. It focuses narrowly on finish quality and completion against what the buyer is contractually entitled to receive — a home built to an acceptable standard and fully finished in line with the specification.
Why snagging matters for new-build buyers
New-build homes are often assumed to arrive defect-free because they are, by definition, brand new. In practice, the opposite is typically true. Modern housing is built at speed, frequently on mass-produced estates, by multiple subcontracted trades working to tight programme dates. Handover deadlines are driven by sales targets and site phasing, and there is a commercial incentive for a plot to be marked "complete" so the next one can begin. The result, in most developments, is a home that looks finished at first glance but carries a long tail of small (and occasionally significant) defects.
This is why a snagging inspection is not an optional luxury on a new build — it is a basic safeguard. A buyer's leverage to have defects corrected is at its highest point before they take the keys, and tapers off from there. Once occupied, remedial work becomes more disruptive to the homeowner, scheduling becomes harder, and the developer's attention naturally shifts to the next phase.
Structural warranties provide a safety net but not a complete one. In Ireland, HomeBond and Premier Guarantee offer typically ten-year structural cover. In the UK, NHBC's Buildmark policy is the dominant equivalent. These policies are designed primarily for serious structural and major defects, not cosmetic issues. A chipped worktop, a poorly aligned internal door, or inconsistent paintwork will almost never be a warranty matter — it is a contractual matter between the buyer and the builder, and the snag list is the document that drives it.
When to do your snagging inspection
Timing shapes how much leverage a buyer has, how complete the list will be, and how quickly remedials happen. Most buyers end up working across three phases.
Pre-handover (the ideal window)
The strongest position is to inspect after the builder has formally declared the property complete but before the keys are transferred. At this stage the developer's contractual commitment to hand over a finished home is fresh, the site team is still on the estate, and the buyer has not yet taken possession. Issues raised here tend to be resolved quickly because they are seen as part of completion, not as after-sale service. Some developers readily accommodate a pre-handover inspection; others need a clear, polite request. It is advisable to ask in writing well in advance.
Post-handover
If a pre-handover slot was not possible — which is often the case in busy estates — the snag list can still be compiled in the first days and weeks after moving in. Most developers accept a written snag list submitted within the first few weeks of occupation, and many contracts include a defined defects period (often the first year) during which the builder remains responsible for rectifying reported issues. Momentum matters here: the sooner the list arrives, the sooner it tends to be actioned.
Follow-up inspections
Snagging is rarely a single event. After the builder has attended to the initial list, a follow-up walk-through — sometimes called round two — verifies that each item has been fixed to an acceptable standard. It is not unusual for a further round to be needed, particularly where trades have to revisit the property (for example, a painter returning after a plasterer's second attempt). Keeping an updated, dated record across these rounds makes the process cleaner and easier to escalate if required.
For a deeper look at the timing tradeoff — including the hybrid approach most professional inspectors recommend and the defects liability periods in Ireland and the UK — see the dedicated guide on snagging before or after handover.
Professional inspector vs DIY: what's right for you?
There is no single correct answer here. Both approaches work, and many buyers sensibly combine them.
The case for a professional inspector
A professional snagger brings a trained eye, working knowledge of building regulations, and familiarity with the defects that typically appear on new builds. They will usually identify items a first-time buyer would not think to check — roof-level issues from ground observation, loft insulation depth, boiler commissioning paperwork, ventilation flow rates, window restrictor compliance on upper storeys. The report they produce carries a degree of independent authority, which can matter if the list is later disputed or escalated. For larger properties, complex layouts, or buyers who simply do not feel confident inspecting themselves, the cost is often modest relative to the purchase price.
The case for DIY
A self-inspection costs nothing beyond time and a few basic tools. The buyer knows the property intimately — they have walked it at viewings, studied the floor plans, and understand what the specification promised. There is no scheduling friction with a third party, and a homeowner can return to re-check items at their own pace. A methodical first-time buyer with a good checklist, a torch, and a few hours to spare can produce a thorough list.
A hybrid approach
Many buyers start with a DIY inspection, generate a detailed list, and submit it to the developer. If remedials proceed smoothly, that may be all that is needed. If disputes escalate — for example, the builder contests whether an item is a defect at all — bringing in a professional for an independent report can reset the conversation.
| Factor | Professional | DIY |
|---|---|---|
| Cost | Paid service | Free |
| Technical depth | High | Depends on buyer |
| Report authority | Strong | Personal record |
| Scheduling | Third-party availability | Flexible |
| Familiarity with the home | General | Intimate |
How much does a snagging inspection cost?
Prices vary considerably by country, property type, and the depth of service offered. The figures below are indicative advertised ranges at the time of writing and should be treated as a guide rather than a quote.
In Ireland, a professional snagging inspection typically falls within a range of around €150 to €450 (£130 to £385). A standard three-bedroom semi-detached home commonly sits in the €200 to €300 bracket. Apartments tend to be on the lower end, reflecting smaller floor areas and fewer external elements to assess. Larger detached or four-bedroom-plus homes usually sit towards the upper end. Re-inspections — the follow-up visit after remedials — are often offered at a reduced rate, typically around €90 to €150.
In the UK, equivalent services commonly advertise in the region of £250 to £650 (€290 to €760), again scaling with property size and specification. Some UK inspectors charge per bedroom or per square metre.
Several factors push prices higher. Location matters — urban and commuter-belt inspections often cost more than rural jobs. Property size is the biggest single driver. Additional services, such as thermal imaging surveys to detect insulation gaps or damp, a same-day digital report, or drone-assisted roof inspection, typically carry extra fees. Buyers are advised to ask exactly what is included: some quotes cover a single visit only, while others build in a follow-up.
For a dedicated breakdown of pricing by property type, region, and scope, see the snagging inspection cost guide.
The complete new-build snagging checklist
The checklist below is organised by area. It is not exhaustive, but it covers the items most commonly flagged on new-build walk-throughs. Each section is best worked through methodically, with photographs taken as issues are identified.
Buyers who prefer a paper version to carry around the property can use the printable snagging checklist.
Exterior and approach
- Brickwork or render even, free from cracks, staining, or mortar splashes
- Pointing consistent and fully filled between bricks
- Roof tiles or slates straight, with no obvious slips or missing units
- Gutters and downpipes secure, aligned, and draining correctly (ideally inspected after rainfall)
- External drainage gullies clear and at correct levels
- Driveway finish level, with no standing water pooling after rain
- Boundary fences or walls installed as per the site plan, with gates operating freely
- External paintwork on doors, window frames, and fascia boards consistent and fully covered
Entrance hall and stairs
- Front door opens smoothly, closes flush, and locks on all points without force
- Door handles, hinges, and letterplate secure and finished
- Floor finish (tile, laminate, or timber) level, with no lifting edges or hollow sections
- Stair treads firm underfoot, with no creaks
- Bannister and spindles secure; handrail at the correct regulatory height
- Paintwork even on walls, skirting, and architraves
- Skirting boards tight to wall and floor, with consistent mitres at corners
Living and dining rooms
- Every socket tested with a plug-in tester
- Light switches operate correctly and feel firmly fixed
- Windows open, close, and lock on all catches; seals intact
- Skirting lines consistent in profile and height across rooms
- Floor finish level, with no springiness, gaps, or lifting joints
- Radiators secure, level, and heating evenly once commissioned
- Ceiling free from cracks, roller marks, or visible joint lines under raking light
Kitchen
- Cabinet doors aligned, with consistent gaps and no sagging hinges
- Drawer runners smooth, with drawers closing softly and squarely
- Worktop seams tight and discreet, with no lippage between sections
- Tile grouting even in colour and depth; silicone beads clean and continuous
- Taps deliver strong hot and cold flow; no drips or leaks under the sink
- Extractor fan runs at all speeds and vents correctly
- Integrated appliance doors flush with surrounding cabinetry
- Sink waste drains quickly and smells are not rising from the trap
Bedrooms
- Window restrictors fitted on upper-floor windows where required by regulations
- Wardrobe or built-in storage aligned, level, and operating smoothly
- Socket positions match the specification and are conveniently located near likely bed positions
- Radiator valves accessible, not obstructed by planned furniture positions
- Ceiling, walls, and skirting free from visible defects under good light
Bathrooms and en-suites
- Silicone seals clean, continuous, and free from gaps around baths, basins, and shower trays
- Toilet flushes fully, refills without running on, and sits firmly
- Shower flow strong; water drains freely rather than pooling around the tray
- Grouting consistent in colour and depth; no cracked or missing sections
- Extractor fan runs on activation and holds a sheet of tissue to the grille when tested
- Tiles aligned, with no visible lippage between adjacent tiles
Utility, boiler and plant areas
- Boiler commissioning sticker present, dated, and signed
- System pressure reading within the manufacturer's recommended range
- Condensate drain correctly routed and insulated where it runs externally
- Gas, electricity, and water meter readings recorded on the day of handover
- Consumer unit clearly labelled, with all circuits identified
- Pipework lagged where exposed; no visible weeps at joints
Attic and loft
- Insulation depth visually consistent across the loft floor (typically in the region of 300mm in both Ireland and the UK, subject to the relevant building regulation in force)
- Loft hatch seals firmly when closed; draught seal intact
- Roof felt or breather membrane visibly intact, with no tears or slumping
- Any exposed pipework lagged
- Loft lighting, if installed, operates correctly
Garden and boundary
- Topsoil coverage to an adequate depth across lawn areas, not a thin skim over rubble
- Paths and patios laid to fall away from the house, with level, stable finishes
- Fencing installed to the correct plot lines as shown on the site plan
- External tap installed if specified, with a functional isolation valve indoors
- Electricity bollard or external socket installed where ordered
- Rainwater butts or soakaways in place where shown on drawings
Tools and equipment you'll need
A thorough snagging inspection does not require a professional kit, but a few inexpensive items make the job significantly easier.
- Torch — essential for looking into lofts, under kitchen units, behind appliances, and along skirting lines. A bright handheld or head torch works well. Raking light across a wall also reveals plaster and paint defects invisible under ambient lighting.
- Spirit level — a 600mm level is ideal for checking worktops, window sills, tiled surfaces, and shelves. A phone app is a poor substitute for genuine defects.
- Tape measure — useful for checking door widths, handrail heights, socket positions, and insulation depth against the specification.
- Socket tester — a plug-in tester costs little and quickly confirms whether sockets are wired correctly. It is one of the highest-value items in the kit.
- Notepad or snagging app — every observation needs to be recorded with location, description, and photograph. A paper notepad works; a dedicated app makes the process faster and keeps photos, notes, and reports in one place. Tools such as SnagHQ consolidate the notes, photos, and report generation into a single workflow, which is useful when a list runs into dozens of items.
How to document snags properly
A snag list is only as useful as the evidence behind it. Loose verbal complaints are easy to dismiss; a clear, dated, photographed record is not.
Every snag should be photographed twice. The first image is a wide shot establishing the location — the room, the wall, the feature it is near. The second is a close-up of the defect itself. Annotating photos with arrows or circles makes the issue unambiguous, particularly for small marks that are easy to overlook.
Descriptions should be specific. "Mark on wall" leaves room for argument. "Black scuff mark, approximately 5cm long, left of radiator, master bedroom, north wall" does not. A good snag entry answers four questions: what is the defect, where exactly is it, what size or severity, and what is the expected remedy?
Items should be numbered sequentially and organised by room, which makes it easy to cross-reference during remedial work and follow-up inspections. Each submitted list should be dated, and a copy retained. The list is best sent in writing — typically by email — so there is an unambiguous timestamp.
A dedicated snagging app such as SnagHQ handles this workflow end to end, linking photographs to numbered items and generating a structured report suitable for sending to the developer.
What to do when the developer will not fix snags
Most snag lists are resolved cooperatively. Occasionally, items are ignored, disputed, or repeatedly "fixed" without being properly addressed. A staged escalation approach tends to produce the best outcomes.
- Submit a formal dated list in writing. Email is strongly preferred over verbal conversations on site. The written record becomes the reference point for everything that follows.
- Send a polite reminder after the agreed timeframe. Copy in the site manager and the sales office. Reference the original list by date and the outstanding item numbers.
- Escalate to the developer's head office or customer care team with photographic evidence and a summary of correspondence. Many national housebuilders have formal customer care processes that sit above site-level staff.
- Contact the warranty provider for anything that may be a structural or major defect. In Ireland that is typically HomeBond or Premier Guarantee; in the UK it is most commonly NHBC under the Buildmark policy. Warranty providers will not generally adjudicate on cosmetic items.
- Use the New Homes Ombudsman (UK only) where the developer is registered under the New Homes Quality Code. This route has been available since 2022 for homes purchased from participating developers and provides a dispute-resolution mechanism separate from the warranty provider.
- Small claims court as a last resort. The small claims limit is €2,000 in Ireland and £10,000 in England and Wales (limits differ in Scotland and Northern Ireland). This route suits clearly quantifiable losses where the builder has refused to engage.
For a deeper, stage-by-stage walk-through of each of these escalation routes — including formal complaint wording, warranty claims, the New Homes Ombudsman in the UK, and small claims limits — see the dedicated guide on what to do if the developer will not fix your snags.
This article is general information, not legal advice. For disputes involving significant sums or complex contract terms, consult a qualified solicitor.
Common new-build snag types
Certain defects appear again and again in industry discussions of new-build quality. Being familiar with the patterns helps a buyer know where to look first.
- Paint defects — runs, thin coverage, brush marks, and touch-ups in a slightly different shade
- Grout inconsistency in wet areas, particularly around shower trays and along bath edges
- Uneven floor levels, detectable with a spirit level or a rolling object
- Internal doors that are misaligned, bind on frames, or fail to latch cleanly
- Incomplete or broken silicone seals around sanitaryware and worktops
- Sockets and switches that are loose in the wall or sit off-square
- Showers that drain slowly, pointing to a poorly laid tray or a partial blockage
- Gaps behind skirting boards where they do not sit flush against uneven plaster
- Missing or incorrectly fitted window restrictors on upper-floor openings
- Shallow topsoil coverage in gardens, with rubble or subsoil visible after settling
- Radiators that do not heat evenly once the system is commissioned
- Kitchen cabinet doors that drift out of alignment within weeks of use
Your legal protections
Ireland
New homes in Ireland are typically covered by a structural warranty from HomeBond or Premier Guarantee, usually for a ten-year period. Cover is weighted towards structural and major defects. Separately, the Building Control Regulations (SI 9 of 2014, as amended by SI 365 of 2015) require that dwellings are signed off by an assigned certifier confirming compliance with the building regulations in force. The Sale and Purchase Agreement signed by the buyer often contains specific clauses about snag lists, defects periods, and how issues are to be notified — these vary between developers and are worth reading carefully before signing.
United Kingdom
In the UK, NHBC's Buildmark is the most widely used structural warranty, again typically for ten years. The New Homes Quality Code, introduced in 2022, sets out standards for how developers handle sales, handover, and post-completion issues. Buyers of homes from developers registered under the Code have access to the New Homes Ombudsman as a route for dispute resolution. Not every developer is signed up, so it is worth checking the status of the seller.
A shared caveat
Across both jurisdictions, the key point is that warranty cover is weighted towards structural and serious defects, not cosmetic finish. The cosmetic snag list — which is usually the majority of items a buyer identifies — is handled through the builder's contractual obligations and goodwill, which is precisely why documenting it properly matters.
Warranty cover varies by provider and policy — always read your own warranty documentation, and consult a solicitor for anything involving significant cost or structural concern.
Frequently asked questions
Do I need to do a snagging inspection if the house looks finished?
Yes. Many of the most common snags — poor silicone seals, loose sockets, uneven floors, misaligned doors, slow-draining showers — are not visible on a casual walk-through. A methodical inspection typically uncovers items that would otherwise surface weeks or months later, when they are harder to have fixed.
How long does a snagging inspection take?
A thorough inspection of an average three-bedroom home typically takes between two and four hours, depending on size, specification, and the condition of the property. Larger homes or properties with many finishes (tiled wet rooms, complex kitchens, landscaped gardens) can take longer. Rushing the process tends to cost the buyer items on the list.
Can I still snag after I've moved in?
Yes. Most developers accept a snag list submitted within the first few weeks of occupation, and contractual defects periods often extend to the end of the first year. Leverage is lower than at pre-handover, but the obligation to rectify legitimate defects does not disappear the moment the keys change hands.
Does the builder have to fix every snag on the list?
Not automatically. The builder is generally obliged to bring the property up to the contractual standard and to relevant building regulations. Items that fall within acceptable tolerances — for example, very minor cosmetic variation — may be contested. A well-documented list with photographs and measurements makes legitimate items harder to dismiss.
What happens if I miss the warranty period?
Cover typically ends at the stated duration (often ten years for structural elements, with shorter periods for defects liability). After that, the homeowner is generally responsible for remedial costs, though latent defect claims may still exist in some circumstances. This is a situation where legal advice is advisable rather than assumption.
Is it worth hiring a professional if the house looks perfect?
Often, yes. A "perfect-looking" new build is exactly the property where a trained inspector tends to find the most — because nothing has drawn the homeowner's attention to specific areas. If the inspection finds nothing, the cost has bought peace of mind. If it finds issues, it has typically paid for itself many times over.